In the Old Town
Côté Marais – Rue du Pontin. This is one of our most favourite places but sadly open in the evenings only. In spring, summer and autumn ask for a table outside in the tiny pedestrian street in the heart of the old town. It’s run by three charming men who make all their food from scratch, source interesting and well-priced wines, many from the local area, and who offer a delicious range of options from a set menu at €31 (three courses). Always ask for an explanation of the dishes on the menu even if you understand every item listed, it’s an event in itself. What is not said about ‘ses pommes de terres’ is not worth knowing. And don’t forget to try the ‘tout chocolat’ dessert if it’s on the menu, it’s to die for. Booking recommended on weekends and peak dates. 00 33 (0)4 93 80 95 39
Note: Cash only! They do not take cards…
Café Turin, Place Garibaldi. Established in 1908 and little has changed since: A legendary place and our first choice for platefuls of uber-fresh prawns, crayfish and other shellfish such as moules mariniere with chips and a glass of house Rose. Located opposite Monoprix supermarket with additional seats on Place Garibaldi.
Le Safari, Cours Saleya. Situated on the pedestrian street where the daily fruit and flower market takes place – one of the most photographed markets in southern France. Pop down for fresh melon, peaches and peppers, then take a seat for coffee or lunch. Choose from their vast choice of dishes a la carte or the wonderful ‘suggestions du jour’. Great for pasta, Provençal specialities and fresh fish inventively cooked. Sit outside under the massive awnings with a large bottle of chilled Rose and watch the world go by (for hours). The most charming waiter is the one that looks like Bill Wyman. Keep an eye out for him.
Lu Fran Calin – situated on a small pedestrian square adjoining the Place Rosetti, abutting the walls of the cathedral. Offers a good variety of interesting home made French and Italian dishes at reasonable prices and giant portions. Very popular with locals so worth booking if you want to sit outside. The kitchen tends to stay open late in summer so always worth a try if you arrive on a late flight.
Chez Juliette – cheap and cheerful. Not as good quality cuisine as the ones listed above but still very pleasant. Outside seating can get booked up in advance so make a reservation or pop in, request a table then go for a drink while you wait.
Le Romarin – opposite Lu Fran Calin. Regional menu, reasonably priced. Not quite as good as the others on this list although the very delicious snails are definitely worth it. It’s an option if you arrive on a late flight as they tend to keep the kitchen open quite late, especially in summer. Service is mixed. If you can get a table served by the slim, dark-haired lady she is absolutely delightful. The other staff should have auditioned for a part in Grumpy Old Men. www.leromarin-nice.com. 00 33 (0)4 93 85 65 20
Planet Sushi – James loves their take-aways. 00 33 (0)4 97 08 08 08
In the Port
La Zucca Magica – Italian vegetarian restaurant on the left hand side of the port just before it curves round. Walls are festooned with extraordinary squash specimens of all shapes and sizes, together with dozens of photographs, drawings and paintings – also of squash. If you leave here in any doubt about which vegetables fall into the squash family, you have not been paying attention. There is no menu, the chef serves what he feels will be a good meal. Trust him – the food is delicious. This, coupled with the eccentric waiter makes this a must visit in Nice.
La Reserve (expensive but stylish and wonderful). Ask for a table on the balcony overlooking the harbour and watch the dinghies, guide-boats, super yachts and dive boats coming in and out as the sun sets. They have a range of menus, a la carte and two or three tasting menus. Yum. www.lareservedenice.fr. 00 33 (0)4 97 08 14 80
Downtown
L’epicuriens Where James took Helen for her 40th. Ask for a table on their private terrace opposite, it feels more like a walled garden. The home made fois gras is delicious and the jar of jelly babies that comes with dessert is a treat! www.les-epicuriens-nice.com. 00 33 (0)4 93 80 85 00
Le Chantecler (2 Michelin stars). Very expensive. Stunning food in a formal, Regency dining room. This is a dining experience not just a meal, a place where you can spot more bling than Hatton Garden, usually pinned to the breast of an aged grande dame. Have a drink in the wood-panelled Le Relais piano bar beforehand to start the evening off in style.
Some great bars:
Le Relais Bar, Hotel Le Negresco Fashioned on the inside of a 17th century galleon. A great place to pop in for cocktails before dinner. Next to Le Chantecler, with live piano music where you can request your favourite easy-listening tracks from the aged crooner tinkling on the ivories and stroke the hotel owner’s cat.
Cave de la Tour Charming little bar with delicious charcuterie and Italian antipasti sharing plates. Grab a chair outside and watch the world go by. Great for a late afternoon drink.
Closes at 8pm. Rue de la Tour.
Les Distilleries Idéales – on the way to the beach. An ideal location for an early morning coffee and croissant, or a last one for the road home. Or for an early evening drink, or pretty much any time of the day. Great atmosphere and a good selection of beers and wines.
24 Rue de la Préfecture. +33 4 93 62 10 66
The Bar, Hotel Palais de la Méditerranée Spectacular rooftop bar with infinity pool overlooking the Baie des Anges and the glittering Mediterranean sea. Dress up and soak up every minute of the magical view. You can also have dinner on the terrace. If you don’t want to up sticks and move to Nice after a summer’s evening on this terrace there’s something wrong with you!
Le Hussard – At the far end of Cours Salaya this rooftop terrace serves wonderful cocktails of all shapes and sizes. A place to see and be seen. Open until late.