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Click here for a comprehensive list of markets across the region and here for those in Nice.
One market worth mentioning in more detail is Nice’s Cours Saleya fruit and flower market (photographed above), one of the most picturesque in the Riviera and the closest to our apartment. To Catch a Thief with Grace Kelly and Cary Grant, Ronin and many other films have been filmed here.
On Monday’s a large antique/flea market runs in its place, the rest of the week it is resplendent with fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers. Every single display is put together with style and pride, whether selling olives, tapenade and anchovy paste, a dozen different types of tomato, courgette flowers to fry in batter, artisan cheeses or the stand opposite the Baroque Chapelle de la Miséricorde of the Brotherhood of Black Penitents, where slices of “socca” (chick-pea pancake) are dished out (to eat on the spot – utterly delicious), delivered by the seller’s husband at regular intervals on his motorbike. Another of the attractions of the market is the imposing classical façade of the Palais des Rois Sardes, originally the seat of government.
Get up bright and early to truly appreciate it. The best time to arrive is around 6 a.m. as vendors are setting up and other tourists are still sipping café au laits in their hotel rooms. If that’s too early on holiday, try to get there by 8 or 9 a.m. Be sure to have plenty of change and small bills to hand and it’s a good idea to bring a backpack or basket to carry your purchases. There are several ‘bags for life’ and a shopping trolly at your disposal in the apartment.
Cafes, bars and restaurants line both sides of the market. When stalls are cleared away at lunch time restaurants expand outwards, setting out their tables under the striped market awnings. Stop for a coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, a plate of moules mariniere or spaghetti vongole after purchasing your wares. It’s a great way to pass a good chunk of the day and catch some sunshine in the process.


